Las Posadas and Nochebuena: How Mexico Celebrates Christmas
For nine nights in December, Mexico knocks on doors and asks for shelter. On the ninth, the door opens and the table is set.
Christmas in Mexico does not begin on the 24th. It begins on December 16, with the first posada, and it does not really end until January 6, with the rosca de Reyes. In between there are candles in the street, a song sung from both sides of a door, a piñata, a pot of hot fruit punch, and a dinner that runs well past midnight.
What las posadas are
Las posadas are held on the nine nights from December 16 to 24. Each one recalls the journey of Mary and Joseph searching for a place to stay in Bethlehem. Tradition traces the custom to the sixteenth century and to Augustinian friars in Acolman, near Mexico City, who joined Catholic devotion to older celebrations of the season.
A posada is, above all, a gathering of neighbors, family or colleagues. It moves through a few simple moments, always in the same order.
The posada, moment by moment
- The procession. Guests walk with small candles and, sometimes, figures of Mary and Joseph.
- Pedir posada. Half the group stays outside and sings, asking for shelter; the other half answers from inside, refusing, until the last verse, when the door opens and everyone enters singing.
- The piñata. The traditional one is a star with seven points, often said to stand for the seven deadly sins. Breaking it, blindfolded, is the triumph over temptation, and what falls out is shared.
- Ponche navideño. Hot fruit punch with tejocotes, guava, sugarcane, cinnamon and piloncillo, served in cups that warm the hands.
- Aguinaldos. Small bags of candy, peanuts and fruit handed to the guests, especially the children.
Nochebuena: the dinner of December 24
The last posada ends in Nochebuena, the most important dinner of the Mexican year. It is late, it is long, and it is almost always at home. The menu changes from house to house and region to region, but some dishes appear again and again.
- Bacalao a la vizcaína, salt cod with tomato, olives and peppers.
- Romeritos in mole, often with dried-shrimp patties.
- Turkey or roast pork leg, carved at the table.
- Ensalada de Nochebuena, with beet, fruit and nuts, the color of the season.
- Buñuelos, thin fried dough finished with a syrup of piloncillo.
- Tamales or pozole, depending on the family.
On the table, very often, is a pot of the red flower Mexico gave the world: the nochebuena, known abroad as the poinsettia, native to Mexico.
And January 6
The season closes on Día de Reyes with the rosca, a ring-shaped sweet bread with small figures of the Christ child baked inside. Whoever finds one in their slice hosts the tamales on February 2, Candelaria. In Mexico, even the end of a celebration is a promise of the next one.
What to bring to a posada or Nochebuena
A guest never arrives empty-handed. The classic answer is something for the table: bread, a dessert, a bottle. Something made by hand, that the house keeps after the night is over, says more. A vessel painted by hand in Santa María Canchesdá with raw honey from Jalisco is one way to arrive: a thread of honey over warm buñuelos the next morning, and a vessel that stays on the table long after the decorations are put away. For more ideas, see our holiday gifts and hostess gifts.
Questions
When are las posadas in 2026?
From Wednesday, December 16 to Thursday, December 24, 2026, one each night, with Nochebuena dinner on the 24th.
What is ponche navideño made of?
It is a hot punch of seasonal fruit, usually tejocotes, guava and sugarcane, simmered with cinnamon and piloncillo.
What does the seven-pointed piñata mean?
Its points are often said to represent the seven deadly sins. Breaking it blindfolded symbolizes faith overcoming temptation.
What is eaten at a Mexican Christmas dinner?
Bacalao a la vizcaína, romeritos, turkey or roast pork, ensalada de Nochebuena, buñuelos, and in many homes tamales or pozole.
More of the calendar in Rituals of Mexico.